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mill-spun yarn

  • 1 Preparation Yarn

    Coarse yarns spun from the waste of the spinner and used as warp for cheap cotton suitings, towels, sheetings, sponge cloth, etc. Its chief characteristic is strength, so it is generally used for warp yarns. The method of spinning diners from that for condenser yarns. As with the condenser system there are two kinds of preparation spinning. The hard waste section includes cop waste, reelers', winders', doublers', ring waste, etc. The soft waste section produces yarns from comber waste, strips, blowings, fly, droppings, etc. The machinery used in the average hard waste mill comprises cop bottom breakers, scutchers, breaker cards, Derby doublers, finisher cards, roving frames, mule or ring frames. The manipulation of the material is the same as for condenser spinning up to and including the Derby doubler. The laps from the Derby doubler are fed to the finisher card in the usual way. As the web reaches the doffer it is divided into four, five, or sometimes six slivers. Each sliver is then drawn through a " trumpet" by rollers, and thence through a coiler into a can (see waste)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Preparation Yarn

  • 2 пряжа механического прядения

    Универсальный русско-английский словарь > пряжа механического прядения

  • 3 hilado

    adj.
    spun.
    m.
    1 spun flax, hemp, wool, silk, or cotton.
    Hilado da, pp
    2 production of thread, spinning of thread.
    past part.
    past participle of spanish verb: hilar.
    * * *
    1 (operación) spinning
    2 (hilo) thread
    ————————
    1→ link=hilar hilar
    1 spun
    1 (operación) spinning
    2 (hilo) thread
    \
    fábrica de hilados spinning mill
    tejidos de hilado spun textiles
    * * *
    1.
    ADJ spun
    2. SM
    1) (=acto) spinning
    2) (=hilo) thread, yarn
    * * *
    a) ( hilo) yarn, thread
    b) ( proceso) spinning
    * * *
    Ex. Again, in Class M7 Textiles we find that the Personality facet P is considered to be the Fibre (Cotton, Flax, Hemp, etc) and in the Energy facet are found the operations ( Spinning, Weaving, Carding, etc.).
    ----
    * hilado a mano = handspinning.
    * hilado del algodón = cotton spinning.
    * * *
    a) ( hilo) yarn, thread
    b) ( proceso) spinning
    * * *

    Ex: Again, in Class M7 Textiles we find that the Personality facet P is considered to be the Fibre (Cotton, Flax, Hemp, etc) and in the Energy facet are found the operations ( Spinning, Weaving, Carding, etc.).

    * hilado a mano = handspinning.
    * hilado del algodón = cotton spinning.

    * * *
    hilado1 -da
    1 (hilo) yarn, thread
    fábrica de hilados spinning mill
    2 (proceso) spinning
    * * *

    Del verbo hilar: ( conjugate hilar)

    hilado es:

    el participio

    Multiple Entries:
    hilado    
    hilar
    hilar ( conjugate hilar) verbo intransitivo
    to spin;
    ◊ hilado fino to split hairs

    verbo transitivo
    a) ‹algodón/lana› to spin;

    [ araña] to spin
    b) ‹ideas/hechos› to string together

    hilado,-a
    I adjetivo spun
    huevo hilado, candied egg yolk threads
    II sustantivo masculino
    1 (acción de hilar) spinning
    2 (resultado de hilar) (spun) yarn
    hilar verbo transitivo & verbo intransitivo
    1 (hacer hilo) to spin
    2 (relacionar datos) to string together, link
    ♦ Locuciones: hilar fino, to split hairs
    ' hilado' also found in these entries:
    Spanish:
    hilada
    English:
    spinning
    - spun
    * * *
    hilado nm
    1. [actividad] spinning
    2. [fibra] yarn, thread
    * * *
    I adj spun
    II m
    1 acción spinning
    2 fibra thread
    * * *
    hilado nm
    1) : spinning
    2) hilo: yarn, thread

    Spanish-English dictionary > hilado

  • 4 Strutt, Jedediah

    SUBJECT AREA: Textiles
    [br]
    b. 26 July 1726 South Normanton, near Alfreton, Derbyshire, England
    d. 7 May 1797 Derby, England
    [br]
    English inventor of a machine for making ribbed knitting.
    [br]
    Jedediah Strutt was the second of three sons of William, a small farmer and maltster at South Normanton, near Alfreton, Derbyshire, where the only industry was a little framework knitting. At the age of 14 Jedediah was apprenticed to Ralph Massey, a wheelwright near Derby, and lodged with the Woollats, whose daughter Elizabeth he later married in 1755. He moved to Leicester and in 1754 started farming at Blackwell, where an uncle had died and left him the stock on his farm. It was here that he made his knitting invention.
    William Lee's knitting machine remained in virtually the same form as he left it until the middle of the eighteenth century. The knitting industry moved away from London into the Midlands and in 1730 a Nottingham workman, using Indian spun yarn, produced the first pair of cotton hose ever made by mechanical means. This industry developed quickly and by 1750 was providing employment for 1,200 frameworkers using both wool and cotton in the Nottingham and Derby areas. It was against this background that Jedediah Strutt obtained patents for his Derby rib machine in 1758 and 1759.
    The machine was a highly ingenious mechanism, which when placed in front of an ordinary stocking frame enabled the fashionable ribbed stockings to be made by machine instead of by hand. To develop this invention, he formed a partnership first with his brother-in-law, William Woollat, and two leading Derby hosiers, John Bloodworth and Thomas Stamford. This partnership was dissolved in 1762 and another was formed with Woollat and the Nottingham hosier Samuel Need. Strutt's invention was followed by a succession of innovations which enabled framework knitters to produce almost every kind of mesh on their machines. In 1764 the stocking frame was adapted to the making of eyelet holes, and this later lead to the production of lace. In 1767 velvet was made on these frames, and two years later brocade. In this way Strutt's original invention opened up a new era for knitting. Although all these later improvements were not his, he was able to make a fortune from his invention. In 1762 he was made a freeman of Nottingham, but by then he was living in Derby. His business at Derby was concerned mainly with silk hose and he had a silk mill there.
    It was partly his need for cotton yarn and partly his wealth which led him into partnership with Richard Arkwright, John Smalley and David Thornley to exploit Arkwright's patent for spinning cotton by rollers. Together with Samuel Need, they financed the Arkwright partnership in 1770 to develop the horse-powered mill in Nottingham and then the water-powered mill at Cromford. Strutt gave advice to Arkwright about improving the machinery and helped to hold the partnership together when Arkwright fell out with his first partners. Strutt was also involved, in London, where he had a house, with the parliamentary proceedings over the passing of the Calico Act in 1774, which opened up the trade in British-manufactured all-cotton cloth.
    In 1776 Strutt financed the construction of his own mill at Helper, about seven miles (11 km) further down the Derwent valley below Cromford. This was followed by another at Milford, a little lower on the river. Strutt was also a partner with Arkwright and others in the mill at Birkacre, near Chorley in Lancashire. The Strutt mills were developed into large complexes for cotton spinning and many experiments were later carried out in them, both in textile machinery and in fireproof construction for the mills themselves. They were also important training schools for engineers.
    Elizabeth Strutt died in 1774 and Jedediah never married again. The family seem to have lived frugally in spite of their wealth, probably influenced by their Nonconformist background. He had built a house near the mills at Milford, but it was in his Derby house that Jedediah died in 1797. By the time of his death, his son William had long been involved with the business and became a more important cotton spinner than Jedediah.
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1758. British patent no. 722 (Derby rib machine). 1759. British patent no. 734 (Derby rib machine).
    Further Reading
    For the involvement of Strutt in Arkwright's spinning ventures, there are two books, the earlier of which is R.S.Fitton and A.P.Wadsworth, 1958, The Strutts and the Arkwrights, 1758–1830, Manchester, which has most of the details about Strutt's life. This has been followed by R.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester.
    R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (for a general background to the textile industry of the period).
    W.Felkin, 1967, History of the Machine-wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufactures, reprint, Newton Abbot (orig. pub. 1867) (covers Strutt's knitting inventions).
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Strutt, Jedediah

  • 5 Arkwright, Sir Richard

    SUBJECT AREA: Textiles
    [br]
    b. 23 December 1732 Preston, England
    d. 3 August 1792 Cromford, England
    [br]
    English inventor of a machine for spinning cotton.
    [br]
    Arkwright was the youngest of thirteen children and was apprenticed to a barber; when he was about 18, he followed this trade in Bol ton. In 1755 he married Patients Holt, who bore him a son before she died, and he remarried in 1761, to Margaret Biggins. He prospered until he took a public house as well as his barber shop and began to lose money. After this failure, he travelled around buying women's hair for wigs.
    In the late 1760s he began spinning experiments at Preston. It is not clear how much Arkwright copied earlier inventions or was helped by Thomas Highs and John Kay but in 1768 he left Preston for Nottingham, where, with John Smalley and David Thornley as partners, he took out his first patent. They set up a mill worked by a horse where machine-spun yarn was produced successfully. The essential part of this process lay in drawing out the cotton by rollers before it was twisted by a flyer and wound onto the bobbin. The partners' resources were not sufficient for developing their patent so Arkwright found new partners in Samuel Need and Jedediah Strutt, hosiers of Nottingham and Derby. Much experiment was necessary before they produced satisfactory yarn, and in 1771 a water-driven mill was built at Cromford, where the spinning process was perfected (hence the name "waterframe" was given to his spinning machine); some of this first yarn was used in the hosiery trade. Sales of all-cotton cloth were initially limited because of the high tax on calicoes, but the tax was lowered in 1774 by Act of Parliament, marking the beginning of the phenomenal growth of the cotton industry. In the evidence for this Act, Arkwright claimed that he had spent £12,000 on his machine. Once Arkwright had solved the problem of mechanical spinning, a bottleneck in the preliminary stages would have formed but for another patent taken out in 1775. This covered all preparatory processing, including some ideas not invented by Arkwright, with the result that it was disputed in 1783 and finally annulled in 1785. It contained the "crank and comb" for removing the cotton web off carding engines which was developed at Cromford and solved the difficulty in carding. By this patent, Arkwright had mechanized all the preparatory and spinning processes, and he began to establish water-powered cotton mills even as far away as Scotland. His success encouraged many others to copy him, so he had great difficulty in enforcing his patent Need died in 1781 and the partnership with Strutt ended soon after. Arkwright became very rich and financed other spinning ventures beyond his immediate control, such as that with Samuel Oldknow. It was estimated that 30,000 people were employed in 1785 in establishments using Arkwright's patents. In 1786 he received a knighthood for delivering an address of thanks when an attempt to assassinate George III failed, and the following year he became High Sheriff of Derbyshire. He purchased the manor of Cromford, where he died in 1792.
    [br]
    Principal Honours and Distinctions
    Knighted 1786.
    Bibliography
    1769, British patent no. 931.
    1775, British patent no. 1,111.
    Further Reading
    R.S.Fitton, 1989, The Arkwrights, Spinners of Fortune, Manchester (a thorough scholarly work which is likely to remain unchallenged for many years).
    R.L.Hills, 1973, Richard Arkwright and Cotton Spinning, London (written for use in schools and concentrates on Arkwright's technical achievements).
    R.S.Fitton and A.P.Wadsworth, 1958, The Strutts and the Arkwrights, Manchester (concentrates on the work of Arkwright and Strutt).
    A.P.Wadsworth and J.de L.Mann, 1931, The Cotton Trade and Industrial Lancashire, Manchester (covers the period leading up to the Industrial Revolution).
    F.Nasmith, 1932, "Richard Arkwright", Transactions of the Newcomen Society 13 (looks at the actual spinning invention).
    R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (discusses the technical problems of Arkwright's invention).
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Arkwright, Sir Richard

  • 6 Dabba Khes

    A variety of Khes also known as Majou or Multani Khes. Hand-woven cloths made in the Punjab in various colours and geometrical designs on from 8 to 16 shafts by skilled weavers on the double-cloth principle. The coarse variety is made from hand-spun yarn and the fine variety from mill spun. From 2 to 4 colours are used, the principal ones being grey, blue, yellow and red.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Dabba Khes

  • 7 Radcliffe, William

    SUBJECT AREA: Textiles
    [br]
    b. 1761 Mellor, Cheshire, England
    d. 1842 Mellor, Cheshire, England
    [br]
    English inventor of the sizing machine.
    [br]
    Radcliffe was brought up in the textile industry and learned carding and spinning as a child. When he was old enough, he became a weaver. It was a time when there were not enough weavers to work up all the yarn being spun on the recently invented spinning machines, so some yarn was exported. Radcliffe regarded this as a sin; meetings were held to prohibit the export, and Radcliffe promised to use his best endeavours to discover means to work up the yarn in England. He owned a mill at Mellor and by 1801 was employing over 1,000 hand-loom weavers. He wanted to improve their efficiency so they could compete against power looms, which were beginning to be introduced at that time.
    His first step was to divide up as much as possible the different weaving processes, not unlike the plan adopted by Arkwright in spinning. In order to strengthen the warp yarns made of cotton and to reduce their tendency to fray during weaving, it was customary to apply an adhesive substance such as starch paste. This was brushed on as the warp was unwound from the back beam during weaving, so only short lengths could be treated before being dried. Instead of dressing the warp in the loom as was hitherto done, Radcliffe had it dressed in a separate machine, relieving the weaver of the trouble and saving the time wasted by the method previously used. Radcliffe employed a young man names Thomas Johnson, who proved to be a clever mechanic. Radcliffe patented his inventions in Johnson's name to avoid other people, especially foreigners, finding out his ideas. He took out his first patent, for a dressing machine, in March 1803 and a second the following year. The combined result of the two patents was the introduction of a beaming machine and a dressing machine which, in addition to applying the paste to the yarns and then drying them, wound them onto a beam ready for the loom. These machines enabled the weaver to work a loom with fewer stoppages; however, Radcliffe did not anticipate that his method of sizing would soon be applied to power looms as well and lead to the commercial success of powered weaving. Other manufacturers quickly adopted Radcliffe's system, and Radcliffe himself soon had to introduce power looms in his own business.
    Radcliffe improved the hand looms themselves when, with the help of Johnson, he devised a cloth taking-up motion that wound the woven cloth onto a roller automatically as the weaver operated the loom. Radcliffe and Johnson also developed the "dandy loom", which was a more compact form of hand loom and was also later adapted for weaving by power. Radcliffe was among the witnesses before the Parliamentary Committee which in 1808 awarded Edmund Cartwright a grant for his invention of the power loom. Later Radcliffe was unsuccessfully to petition Parliament for a similar reward for his contributions to the introduction of power weaving. His business affairs ultimately failed partly through his own obstinacy and his continued opposition to the export of cotton yarn. He lived to be 81 years old and was buried in Mellor churchyard.
    [br]
    Bibliography
    1811, Exportation of Cotton Yarn and Real Cause of the Distress that has Fallen upon the Cotton Trade for a Series of Years Past, Stockport.
    1828, Origin of the New System of Manufacture, Commonly Called "Power-Loom Weaving", Stockport (this should be read, even though it is mostly covers Radcliffe's political aims).
    Further Reading
    A.Barlow, 1870, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (provides an outline of Radcliffe's life and work).
    W.English, 1969, The Textile Industry, London (a general background of his inventions). R.L.Hills, 1970, Power in the Industrial Revolution, Manchester (a general background).
    D.J.Jeremy, 1981, Transatlantic Industrial Revolution. The Diffusion of Textile Technologies Between Britain and America, 1790–1830s, Oxford (discusses the spread of the sizing machine in America).
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Radcliffe, William

  • 8 Flax Fibre, Tow And By-Products

    FLAX FIBRE, TOW and BY-PRODUCTS
    Flax, Broken - Scutched flax which is less than 20-in. long and therefore unfit for hackling in the spinning mill. Flax, C.D. and T. - Graders' marks which denote the type of scutched flax: c (chaine) to represent warps, D (demi) to represent medium warps, and T (trame) to represent wefts. Flax, Green, or Natural - Scutched flax produced from de-seeded straw without any intermediate treatment such as retting. Flax, Line - The hackled flax produced by a hackling machine or hand hackling. A term sometimes erroneously applied to scutched flax. Flax, Retted - Scutched flax produced from straw which has been retted. Usually divided into three main classes, namely, water retted flax, dew retted flax, and chemically retted flax. Flax, Scutched - The product from the delivery end of a scutching machine or from scutching flax straw on a wheel. It consists of the long fibre strands in a parallel condition and substantially free from wood and other extraneous material. The yield of scutched flax is commonly expressed as stones (14-lb.) per acre, but in Ireland it is sometimes expressed as stones per peck of seed sown. The average yield per acre of scutched flax has varied according to year from about 20 stones per acre to 40 stones per acre, with occasional exceptional yields of 80 and 90 stones per acre. Grader, Flax - The man who places the scutched flaxes in their appropriate grades of quality by eye judgment and feel. Grades, Flax - Tank retted flaxes are graded from A through the alphabet in ascending order of value. Dam retted flaxes are graded from 1-7 in descending order of value. Dew retted flaxes are graded 0-6 in descending order of value. Grades, Tow - Green tow is graded 1-8 and then 9a, 9b, Z, Z2, and beater tow in descending order of value. Tank retted tow is graded I, II, III, 1, 2, 3, 3X, 3XXX, in descending order, whilst dam and dew retted tows are I, II, II, 1, 2, 3. Pluckings - The short, clean fibre produced at the end of the scutching machine where the operatives dress and square the pieces of flax ready for selection. In grading pluckings are classed as tow (q.v.). Root Ends, Straw - The broken-off roots which fall from the straw under the breaking rollers. Rug, Scutching - All the detritus which falls below the two compartments of the scutching machine after the shives have been shaken out of it, or the waste made when producing scutched flax on a wheel. It consists of partly scutched short straws, broken straws, weeds, and beater tow. It is classed as root end rug or top end rug, according to which end of the flax it comes from. Selection - The preliminary sorting of the scutched flax into main grades at the delivery end of the scutching machine. Shives - The short pieces of woody waste beaten from the straw during scutching. Tow - Any substantially clean but tossed and tangled flax fibre of less than scutched flax length. Tow Baling - The operation of making-up tow into bales. Tow, Beater - Short, fine, clean fibres which fall from the last third of the compartments during scutching. Tow, Inferior low grade (Green) - Green tow of a grade lower than 9a. Tow, Inferior low grade (Retted) - Retted tow of a grade lower than 3XXX. Tow, Machine, or Cast - Tow produced by the hackling machine. Tow, Rejected - Tow unsuitable for spinning on flax tow machinery. Tow, Rescutched - Two scutched on tow handles or a tow scutching machine. Tow, Rolled - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and highspeed shaker. Tow, Rolled and Beaten - The product from passing scutching rug through tow rollers and beaters, and a high-speed shaker. The principal flax markets of the world are at Courtrai, Bruges, Ghent, Lokeren and Zele in Belgium; Rotterdam in Holland; Riga in Latvia; Leningrad, Pernau and Witebek in Russia; Douai and Flines in France; Newry, Rathfriland, Strabane, Ballymoney, Lisnaskea, Ballybay and Armagh in Ireland. Courtrai flax is the finest produced. It is uniform in fibre, strong, clean and of a good colour. Yarns up to 200's lea are spun from it. Irish flax comes next in spinning qualities from 90's to 120's lea are produced. As a warp yarn it is much preferred as the strength is greater than other types. Flemish flax is dark in colour, dryer than others, strong, and can be spun up to 120's lea. Dutch flax is clean, good colour and spins into yams up to 90's lea. Russian flax is coarser than the above types and is usually spun up to about 70's lea.

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Flax Fibre, Tow And By-Products

  • 9 Cotton Waste

    There are two classes of waste, known respectively as " hard " and " soft," and the methods of their treatment differ according to the used to which the waste is put. Hard Waste consists essentially of the waste from ring frames, reeling and winding machines, cop bottoms, and all other waste of a thready nature. The products is invariably spun into the finer counts of yarn. Soft Waste is mostly composed of scutcher droppings, card cylinder and flat strips and fly, clearer laps, sweepings, etc. It is adapted for lower counts, soft-spun weft, etc. In order to obtain the best results from the above waste it is essential that the two kinds be separated and treated accordingly. The waste thrown off in the process of cotton spinning may be utilised in a variety of ways. Certain portions may be worked up again in the mill in which it is made; or in its loose state it may be converted into wadding, gun cotton, etc. (see waste spinning)

    Dictionary of the English textile terms > Cotton Waste

  • 10 Dale, David

    SUBJECT AREA: Textiles
    [br]
    b. 6 January 1739 Stewarton, Ayrshire, Scotland
    d. 17 March 1806 Glasgow, Scotland
    [br]
    Scottish developer of a large textile business in find around Glasgow, including the cotton-spinning mills at New Lanark.
    [br]
    David Dale, the son of a grocer, began his working life by herding cattle. His connection with the textile industry started when he was apprenticed to a Paisley weaver. After this he travelled the country buying home-spun linen yarns, which he sold in Glasgow. At about the age of 24 he settled in Glasgow as Clerk to a silk merchant. He then started a business importing fine yarns from France and Holland for weaving good-quality cloths such as cambrics. Dale was to become one of the pre-eminent yarn dealers in Scotland. In 1778 he acquired the first cotton-spinning mill built in Scotland by an English company at Rothesay on the Isle of Bute. In 1784 he met Richard Arkwright, who was touring Scotland, and together they visited the Falls of the Clyde near the town of Lanark. Arkwright immediately recognized the potential of the site for driving water-powered mills. Dale acquired part of the area from Lord Braxfield and in 1785 began to build his first mill there in partnership with Arkwright. The association with Arkwright soon ceased, however, and by c.1795 Dale had erected four mills. Because the location of the mills was remote, he built houses for the workers and then employed pauper children brought from the slums of Edinburgh and Glasgow; at one time there were over 400 of them. Dale's attitude to his workers was benevolent and humane. He tried to provide reasonable working conditions and the mills were well designed with a large workshop in which machinery was constructed. Dale was also a partner in mills at Catrine, Newton Stewart, Spinningdale in Sutherlandshire and some others. In 1785 he established the first Turkey red dye works in Scotland and was in partnership with George Macintosh, the father of Charles Macintosh. Dale manufactured cloth in Glasgow and from 1783 was Agent for the Royal Bank of Scotland, a lucrative position. In 1799 he was persuaded by Robert Owen to sell the New Lanark mills for £60,000 to a Manchester partnership which made Owen the Manager. Owen had married Dale's daughter, Anne Caroline, in 1799. Possibly due in part to poor health, Dale retired in 1800 to Rosebank near Glasgow, having made a large fortune. In 1770 he had withdrawn from the established Church of Scotland and founded a new one called the "Old Independents". He visited the various branches of this Church, as well as convicts in Bridewell prison, to preach. He was also a great benefactor to the poor in Glasgow. He had a taste for music and sang old Scottish songs with great gusto.
    [br]
    Further Reading
    Dictionary of National Biography.
    R.Owen, 1857, The Life of Robert Owen, written by himself, London (mentions Dale).
    Through his association with New Lanark and Robert Owen, details about Dale may be found in J.Butt (ed.), 1971, Robert Owen, Prince of Cotton Spinners, Newton Abbot; S.Pollard and J.Salt (eds), 1971, Robert Owen, Prophet of the Poor: essays in honour of the two-hundredth anniversary of his birth, London.
    RLH

    Biographical history of technology > Dale, David

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